Sewing-machine.



A. R. SCHOENKY.

SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION HLED SEPT. 25. 1912.

,Qi @,545. Patented Jan. 2, 1917.

4 SHEETS-SHEET l.

QW; @MW

. R. SCHOENKY.

SEWING MACHINE,

APPLICAUON FILED sEPT.-25.19x2.

Mews@ A. R. SCHOENKY.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICAHON FILED SEPT. 25, |912.

lacnfed Jam. 2, i917.

4 SHEETSSHET 3.

A. R. lSCHOENKY.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED SEPT. 25. I9I2.

Patented Jan. 2,1917.

4 SHEETS-SHEET 4 mmm@ L'weviaapf 7 g Q ,ffmc MMM] Lw @ai 'narran enanasramener onirica AUGQ'ST R. SCHQENKY, 0F SOMERVILLE, MASSACHUSETTS,SSIGNOR 'O THE REECE SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, ACORPORATION F MAINE.

SEWING-MACHINE.

Specication of Letters Patent. f

Patented Jan. 2, 19117.

`welt are sewed together. An example of that class of machines isillustrated my prior application .Serial No. 680,356, filed February 27,1912, which in turn refers to expired U. S. Patent No. 478,870, of April26,1892.

An object of the present invention is to generally improvetheconstruction and operation of sole sewing machines of all classes,including as examples the machines of the prior application and patentabove mentioned.

A special object of the present invention is to so reorganize orrearrange the various instrumentalities of the prior machine, and to soreconstruct or dispense with various portions or devices as tomaterially simplify the construction and operation of the machine andlargely reduce the number of mechanical parts required in its make-up,thereby securing decreased expense of construction and greaterdurability and freedom from wear and tear.

Particularly is it an object'hereof to simplify the machine and reduceits number o1" parts by reorganizing the machine with respect to thevarious parts of its thread mechanism and combining all of such partsinto a simple; eliicient and compact thread mechanism. With theintroduction of this'improvement, and the general simplification of themachine. thereby permitted, I estimate that my invention enables amachine to be constructed with substantially two hundred fewer partsthan before.

Other objects and advantages pertaining to the present invention willappear in the hereinafter following description, or will be apparent tothose skilled in the art.

To the attainment of such objects and advantages. the present inventionconsists in the novel combinations, arrangements, de-

ysection on the planel 2-2 of Fig.' 1.

vices, and'parts set forth, described and illustrated in the followingdescription and accompanying drawings.

I will first describe one form of machine embodying my improvements andwill thereafter point out the novel features inthe claims.

In the accompanying drawings, forming a part hereof, Figure 1 is a frontelevation of a sole sewing machine embodying my invention, or rather theupper part of Such machine, the post 1 being broken olf as shown,insteadof being illustrated as eX- tending to the floor as in said priorapplicatlon and-patent. Fig. 2 is a left-hand side elevation of themachine, taken partly in Fig. 3 1s a right-hand side elevation ofthemachine shown in Figs. 1 and 2. Fig. 4 on an enlarged scale shows aleft-hand elevation of the thread mechanism. Fig. 5 is a crosssection,taken on the plane 18--13 of Fig. i.

`Similar letters of reference designate corresponding partsin theseveral figures of the drawings.

Without attempting any extensive or careful comparison between thepresent machine and that of the prior patent and application referredto, I call attention that in the prior patent the main or power shaftcarries besides the pulley four distinct cam disks` containing operatingcams for the dierent parts of the machine, whereas in the presentimprovement I am enabled by the rearrangements, eliminations, andcondensationsdescribed to dispense with one of those cam disks andoperate all of the mechanisms with three cam disks. I further callattention that in said prior patent the thread manipulating meanscomprises to the left of and belowthe sewing point, Fig. 1, a threadtake-up and other parts coperating therewith in manipulating the thread,while at the right of the sewing point, Fig. 1, is a complicated andunwieldy thread mechanism, many of whose parts are cordinated with oradapted to other parts 'of the machine, so as to produce manycomplications and a great number of parts; all of which is obviatedherein by the rearrangements to be described, in which the threadmeasuring, clamping, and taking-up functions are performed in a. simple,compact,v combined mechanism, whose introduction constitutes a practicalreorganization of the' machine, to

the attainment of the advantages hereinbe fore referred to. In a. word,the machine hereof is in its entirety a substantially new machine.

I w1ll refer now by reference numeral to the machine parts illustratedin the accompanying drawings.

Extending upwardly from any convenient base is the post 1, supporting atits upper end the head or casting, 2, which Will be ofa complicatedstructure unnecessary to de` scribe, it affording support for various ofthe working or non-working machine parts hereinafter to be referred to.The main shaft 3 runs in the upper part ofthe machine, extending fromleft to right, and supported in bearings or brackets 4.l At the left endof thel shaft 3, 'is pIley 5, which may be engaged by a belt for drivingthe machine. Carried on the' shaft are three cam disks, namely: cam disk6, at the right, cam disk 7 in the center, and cam disk 8 at the left,containing a number of cams or grooves for operating various parts ofthe machine. A steel bracket 9, extending forwardly from the head 2,forms an important, fixed part of the machine, supporting the shuttlecase, the

work support, the needle fittings, and other Y parts.

The shuttle case 10, may be located as usual, and may comprise asomewhat large casting, as indicated, to the front of which is securedthe shuttle retainer ,11, in the usual formv of a ring, it serving toconfine within the case the shuttle 12, which encompasses the bobbin 13,the latter retained in place by the device 14.

Before referring further to the various active instrumentalities, Iwould mention that many of the parts may be steam heated, for reasonswell understood, enabling the use of wax thread, and for this purposesteam pipes 15 are shown, by which steam is conveyed to a steam box 16,surrounding, or forming part of the shuttle case, and steam box 17,atgthe lower part of the head, for heating the\thread take-up andsurrounding' parts, and steam box 18, for heating theauxiliary take-upand also shaped to serve as a stop therefor, and steam box 19, forheating the initial tension located above the Wax pot 20, Figs. 2 and 3.

The main active and coperating instru-- mentalities in the presentmachine comprisev foot; the thread lifting hook- 29 abo-ve the worl;support and adjacent to the shuttle; the auxiliary take-up 30; thecombined main take-up and thread measure 31, and the thread-lock 32.

Before referring more particularly to the construction of the aboveenumerated instrumentalities, bearing reference Nos. 21 to 32 inclusive,I will refer generally to the :irrangement of cams, so that the functionand location of each cam may be understood in advance of the descriptionof the connections from the cam to the instrumentality actuated thereby.

The right-handy cam disk 6, Fig. 1, contains on its right-hand surface acam 33, for actuatingv the main take-up and thread measure 31. Cam disk6 on its periphery contains cam or groove 34', for causing theto-and-fro movement of the feed slide which carries the awl 24. Cam disk6 at its left face contains a cam 35, for actuating the thread liftinghook 29. Cam disk 7 at its. right-hand side contains cam 36 forautomatically operating the presser-foot during each stitch, imposing anextra pressure upon it and releasingit. Cam disk 7 at its peripherycontains cam 37, having connections for moving the looper forwardly andbackwardly 1n cooperation with the other parts. Cam disk 7 at itsleft-hand face contains a cam for moving the awl upwardly anddownwardly. Cam disk 8 at its right-hand face contains two cams o rgrooves not shown, but serving in a well-known man'- ner for actuatingrespectively the thread looping hook 27, and the needle 25. Cam disk 8at its periphery contains cam 41, having connections for moving thelooper 28 to right and left. Cam disk 8 at its left face contains twocams, the outer one, 42, having connections for operating the needleguide, and the inner one, 43, effecting the shuttle movement incoperation With the other parts.

The feeding of the work herein is preferably effected by means of theawl, the latter being shifted in an advancing direction while engaged inthe work, and returned to its original position after disengagement fromthe work. The following is a convenient mechanism for accomplishing thisfunction: The guide-way 44 for the feed slide 45, is a fixed guide-way,sapported or formed on head 2, of the mac ine. Upstanding from the feedslide 45, 'is the awl post 46, at Whose upper end is carried theoscillating toothed awl segment 47, and the awl clamp 48, by which theawl 24 is secured to oscillate with the segment 47. The means ofoscillating the awl will be hereinbelow described. Bolted on top of thefeed slide 45,. is a casting 49. This is adjustable to right and left,Fig. 1, by means of connection 50, between the awl post 46y and theadjustment.

casting 49. The feed slide is vibrated through the casting 49, thelatter having a link 51 extending tothe right and pivoted to an arcshaped crank arm 52, having an arc-shaped groove 53, at any desiredpoint in which the link 51 may be connected, so that when the arm isactuated the link will be moved by varying amounts, according to Forconvenience the link 51 is extended to the right beyond its pivot and isbent vertically downward to form a handle 54, which may be thrown fromand toward the operator in effecting an adjustment of feed. When properadjustment is secured, it will be maintained by means of a pair ofopposite stop pins 55, to prevent lateral, but permit longitudinalmovement of the link 51. Shown in dotted lines in Figs. 1 to.3, is avertical stud 56, carrying at its lower end the forwardly extending andswinging crank arm 52. The upper end of stud 56 is provided with anIoperating arm 57 that extends rearwardly and is provided with a pin 58,that engages the cam groove 34, in cam disk 6 already ment`oned. By thismeans the continuous operation of the power shaft acting through the cam34 effects a right and left-hand vibratoryy movement of the feed-plate,thereby carrying the awl post and the oscillating awl; and the extent ofmovement is adjustable by 'the handle 54, as already described.

I will now describe convenient connections between the shuttle 12 andthe cam 43 in the cam disk 8, whereby the shuttle will be properlyoperated.

Pivoted at rear of the machine is a forwardly extending cam lever 59,Fig. 2, having a pin or stud 60, engaging the cam groove 43. The camlever at its forward end carries a-toothed segment or rack 61, which inits up-and-down movement is braced by the guide, or contact plate 62.This rack has teeth on its right-hand side, which .engage a pinion 63 onthe shuttle operating shaft 64. At its front end is a means for drivingthe shuttle, for example, the'driver 65. By the connections thusdescribed, the shuttle is caused to oscillate, making nearly a completerevolution in one direction and then a reversal. bviously, however, thetype of shuttle, or its manner of actuation, might be otherwise than asshown and described.

The presser-foot 23 is carried at the forward end of presser-foot arm66, capable of swinging about a fixed stud 67, and having a rearextension or arm 68 rigid with arm 66. There is also a second rear armor extension 69, which is'not rigid, but is spring connected with arm 68by a spring connection, 70. .Extending downwardly4 from arm shaft 73,having a pin 74 projecting there-l guidance.

^ from,'to which is secured spring 75, pulling upon the pin so as tonormally keep the presser-foot upon the work withAa moderate pressure.This moderate normal pressure is always in effect, except when varied bythe automatic mechanism at each stitch, or by a suitable treadleoperated releasing mechanisrn.

T will now describe suitable connections for oscillating the awl 24 fromthe cam 38 on the left face of the cam disk 7.

An operating lever 94, is pivoted at the rear of the machine, as shownat the righthand side of Fig. 3, and at its forward end this has thetoothed segment or rack 96 and the latter engages with the rack 47before referred to, with which the awl oscillates. The arm 94 isprovided with a stud engaging the cam groove in the cam disk 7, and itwill be understood that the cam is timed to cooperate with the otherparts of the machine. Both toothed segments 96 and 47 oscillate invertical planes, and they mutually engage.

The teeth are horizontally arranged, .as

shown in Fig. 3. One or both of the seg ments has sufficient length oftooth to permit a relative horizontal sliding between them, as the feedslide reciprocates. thus preserving the engagement of the awlconnections. The segment, or rack 96, is properly guided by means of arib on its right-hand side, seen in Fig. 3, engaging a fixed rib on themachine head, and the opposite side of the segment 96, contacts with theneedle operating segment for mutual The operation of these parts ismerely that as the main shaft rotates, the awl segment and awl arecaused to oscillate. the awl thereby passing upwardly through theperforation in the presser-foot and returning downwardly.

For oscillating the needle 25 from one of the cams on the right face ofcam disk 8. an operating lever may be employed, suitably actuated fromthe cam, having atits forward end a toothed segment, or rack. 97. (seeFig. 3) engaging a smaller toothed segment or pinion 99, (see Fig. 2)which carries the needle 25. The operation is that the curved needlemerely oscillates from above through theopening in the work formed b vthe awl, following up the awl to a point beneath the work, where a loopis fed to the needle hook and drawn upwardly by the needle above thework.

The needle guide 26, may be operated from a cam 42, at the left face ofdisk 8, by the following convenient mechanism, (see Fig. 2): A bellcrank lever 101. has a stud 102, engaging the cam groove 42. and at itsother extremity the lever is provided with a rack 103` which is engagedby a pinion 104. the pinion being mounted on a short. horizontal shaft105.Yextending from the pinion 104 toward the right, and having' at itsright end a second pinion, the teeth of which engage directly with theteeth on a segment which carries the needle guide 26.

The thread looping hook 27, may be operated from one of the cams at therighthand face of the disk 8, by any usual means, such as an inclinedsliding push-bar, carrying the hook forward and backward in an upwardincline, and a stud on said bar directly engaging the cam groove.

The threadl looper 28, may be conveniently operated from the peripheralcam 37 of the'disk 7 and the peripheral cam 41 of the disk 8, by thefollowing connections: About a vertical pivot near the rear of themachine swings horizontally a bell crank lever 109, whose forward endmay have a stud engagingcam groove 37. Lever 109 also has a lleftwardextending arm which is forked at 111 for a purpose to shortly appear. Aseparate, forwardly extending arm 112 is provided with a slide 113,adapted to slide forwardly and backwardly in the arm 112, and this slide113 carries the looper 28 at its front. On the rear end of slide 113, isa stud 114, which engages in the forked end 111, before referred to, ofbell crank lever 109. Also a stud 115, shown in dotted lines, Fig. 2,carried on arm 112, engages in cam groove 41. The operation of thismechanism is that the eccentric portions of cam groove 41, effect rightand left-hand swinging of arm 112 and thereby right and lefthandmovements of the looper 28, while the eccentric portions of cam groove37, acting through the bell crank lever 109, cause the slide 113, tomove forwardly and backwardly, `thus carrying the looper 28 forwardlyand backwardly. By these two movements, a compound motion to the looperis effected. The actual motion of the looper may be as is well knownandneed not be particularly described, except to state that in coperationwith the thread looping hook 27, it forms a loop and places it upon theneedle hook below the work.

For operating the thread lifter 29 from the cam 35, at the left face ofdisk 6,-the following mechanism may be employed: A lifter operatingleverhas al rear arm 116 and a forward arm 117, swinging about a centralpivot 118. The rear arm 116 has a stud 119 engaging in cam groove 35, asseen in dotted lines, Fig. 3. The forward arm 117 carries the lifter 29,an adjusting device 120 being provided, however', for initiallyadjusting the position of the lifter. The operation of the lifter is tomove vupwardly and downwardly, taking a thread loop from the hookedneedle in one oscillation of the needle and subsequently delivering suchloop to the shuttle, so as to interlock in a well-known manner the underand upper threads.

The auxiliary take-up, 30, is not power actuated, but worksautomatically with a spring 30a. This take-up in its vertical swingingmovement encounters an upper stop 30", adjustable by a screw 30, and alower stop 30d, both stops being formed on the steam box 18, whichthereby maintains the take-up and auxiliary parts in properly heatedcondition. The 'construction ofthe auxiliary take-up, with its arm, rearpivot, and swing arrangement, is suiliciently clear \in Fig. 4 torequire no further description. I will now refer to the mechanism fortaking up the under thread in each stitch, for locking and unlocking thethread at proper points in the formation of the stitch, and formeasuring ofi' the proper amount of under thread to be employed in eachstitch, to determine in a uniform manner where the line of interlockingloops of under and up- .per thread will stand in the work.Heretoforethe'thread measuring mechanism has been aco-mplicated, clumsymechanism, lo- .cated in a different part of the machine from thetake-up. In the present invention, the

of a rotary wheel adapted to be locked against a release for rotation,said wheel having an interrupted peripheral V-groove,

the interruption being Aformed by a series of lateral recesses, such asround holes bored through from side to side, the bottoms of saidrecesses or holes substantially corresponding with the base ofthe'V-groove in regard to radial position. In connection with thisthread clamp, or equivalent thread clamp, the present portion of myinvention comprises a combined thread measure and take-up instrument, inthe form of a swinging arm having a thread wheel at its outer end andthe thread clamp located between such instrument and the thread supply;it being understood that the combined instrument is swung to and froover a given path during the formation of each stitch and that thethread clamp opens and closes at proper times as hereinafter set forth,this being accomplished in such manner that the com- 'bined instrumentin its operative movement first serves as a take-up to draw in thethread of the previous stitch and properly set it in the work, and then,after the release of the clamp, serves as a thread measure operated,namely, from the swinging movement of the arm, the latter havlng a partsuch as a cam, and the thread clamp having 13 0 naine-ae a part such asa bolt, the two cooperating so that at a given point in the armsswinging the bolt will cause the locking of the clamp, and on the returnmovement the releasing of the clamp. rllhis mechanism enables the stitchline, or line of interlocking loops of the stitches to be drawn asset'within the work a given proportion of the thickness of the latter. 1will now describe in detail the particular mechanism in which this partof my invention is embodied.

rFhe main take-up or arm 31, is operated from the cam 33 at the rightface of disk 6,

i while the thread lock 32, associated therewith, is adjusted from theshort shaft 73 already referred to, which moves with, and vhose positionis determined by the presseroot.

Referring more particularly to Figs. 2, 4, and 5, the thread from thewax pot 2O passes first to an auxiliary tension 121, located at the rearof the machine above the wax pot. Thence the thread passes forwardlythrough an interior passage or tunnel, 122, (see Fig. 1) where it iskept heated. -The thread then passes to the thread lock, or lockingwheel, 32, and around the groove of such wheel for substantially a fullturn, or preferably slightly more than a turn. Thence, the thread passesupwardly and forwardly Vto the auxiliary take-up 30, passing around the-wheel thereof, returning upon itself to the wheel 123, at the end ofthe combined' takeup and measuring arm 31. thread passes upwardly andforwardly again directly to the looper 28, which cooperates with thethread looping hook27, for feeding loops to the hooked needle.

Having thus generally described the mechanism, by showing the course ofthe thread, 1 will continue by describing th preferred details.

l1`he arm 31 and wheel 32 are mounted, rigidly and loosely respectively,on the left end of operating shaft 124. Said shaft at its right end hasan arm 125 for oscillating it (see Figs. 1 and 3), which arm isconnected by a link 126 .withthe arm 127 of a lever centrally pivoted at128, 'and having an upwardly 'extending arm 129, the stud, 130, of whichengages in the cam groove 33 for oscillating the shaft 124 and thetake-up and measuring arm 31. rlihe shown contour of cam groove 33determines the timing and the amount of oscillation of shaft 124 and theswinging of arm 31, 1t will be understood, of course, that the arm 31 isthrown upwardly its full height at the time 'the under thread is Ibeingpassed around the shuttle, after which it returns to effect thetaking-up of the loose under thread, the extent of this taking-updetermining how far the under thread shall be pulled down into the work.

Referring to Figs. 4 and 5, an irregular Thence, the i plate or camplate 131 is shown, this sur- .rounding the shaft 124 and secured to thearm 31 so as to oscillate therewith. Loose on the shaft 124 is a hub132, which may be built up, but for convenience is shown as a singlepiece of metal integral with the locking wheel 32. Surrounding the hub132 is a sleeve 132x, which at its rear side has a hollow or tubularprojection 133, radially arranged and containing a radially moving bolt134, having teeth 135 at its inner end adapted to engage and disengageteeth 136, formed all around the internal hub 132. The sleeve 132, inaddition to the tubular projection 133, has a toothed projection 137,Fig. 4, engaged by a toothed pinion 138, whichl latter is fastened uponthe shaft 73, shown in dotted lines, Fig. 4, and whose radial positionis determined through the link 71, by the position of the presser-foot.When the machine is at work upon thin leather, the presser-foot willhave a lower, and the link 71 a higher position than when working uponthick leather, thus the actual position of thevexternal sleeve 132 andthe bolt 134 is determined positively by the thickness of the work.Behind the bolt 134, is a. spring 139, pressing the bolt inward so as tocause the engagement of teeth 135 and 136, tliereby at such times fixingagainst revolution, the internal sleeve 132 and the lock Wheel 32. Aportion of the bolt, 134, projects through a slot as shown. so as tocontact with tne periphery of the cam plate 131, which oscillates withthe take-up arm 31. Thus, a coperation is effected between the arm 31and the bolt. ln the position shown in Figs. 2, 4, and 5, the cam plate131 has forced the bolt outwardly, thereby unlocking the teeth 135, 136,so that the lock wheel 32 and hub 132 are free to revolve. -When thearm31 is raised, the cam 131` releases the bolt 134, permitting theteeth 135, 136, to engage, and thus positively holding the lock wheel 32against movement.

The illustrated parts are so designed that `any change in position ofthe presser-foot owing to variations or-changes in'thickness of the solewill eHect an automaticl readjustment of` the depth of the stitch llne,so

that, ignoring the substantially uniform v6 if bottom thereof, thisbeing shown accomplished by a. circumferential series of round holesbored directly through the wheel from flange to ila-nge, as shown, thebottom of such holes corresponding with the bottom of the V-groove, asindicated in Fig. 5. The interruptions thus afford such a hold Ior dragupon the thread that -the latter isincapable of slipping and lthe wheelthus effectually serves its purpose as a clamp.

The operation of the described thread mechanism is sim le. At eachdownward stroke of the combined take-up and measure arm 31, it eicientlytakes up the thread, which is locked by wheel 32, and the thread isproperly pulled to or into the work. As the arm 31 approaches itslowermost position, thecam 31 throws out the bolt 134, thus freeing thelock wheel, and the taking up of the thread ceases. This point maybecalled the termination of the take-up movement of the arm 31. Theremainder of the movement of arm 31 to the end o f its stroke may becalled thevthread measuring movement, and during that movement, afterythe taking-up has ceased, a new quantity of thread is drawn from thethread supply, this being permitted because the lock wheel is nowlreleased for rotation. It will be understood that the auxiliarytake-'up 30 automatically comes into play at the beginning of thedown-stroke of the main take-up,

' such auxiliary take-up yielding under the increasing resistance ofspring 30a, so as to absorb the shock and avoid breaking the thread.

v I will now explain the'automatic readjustment 'of the stitch linedepth, due toA changes in thickness of Work.

Suppose, for example, the machineV is at work attaching together a soleyhaving a thickness of .27 inch and a .10 inch welt, and thatithe lineof interlocking stitches or loops is" being pulled .09 inch, downwardfrom the upper surface, or one third of the thickness of the sole: Withthe machine so adjusted, if there is a change in the thickness of thework, due either to irregularities in one piece of leather, orvariations in successive pieces, and supposing that a portion of solehaving a thickness of .2 1 inch comes under the presser-foot, there willbe an automatic readjustment as follows: The presser-foot descends .tothe new thickness of face of the work.

` longer.

slightly later upon the bolt so that the release of the thread iseffected lat a slightly later point of time. In other Words, the take-upvmovement of the arm 31 continues slightly further. Thereby the line ofinterlocking loops is drawn. less far downwardly, namely .07 inch intothe sole, as the machine is designed. Thus the interlocking line ismaintained always at the proportionate depth of one third the solethickness'below the top I also provide means for effecting at will amanual adjustment of the relations of the described part, so that theoperator may in advance set the machine to draw the stitch line anydesired extent into the work. i

Specifically, it will be seen that this is` accomplished herein by anadjustment of the relative operative positions respectively of the partor cam 131, which is actuated by the arm 31, and the part or bolt 134,which eects the locking and unlocking of the thread clamp 32. Thus,throwing back the cam delays slightly the timing of the bolt operationso as to render later the cessation of take-up and commencement ofthread measuring, thus pulling the stitch line farther linto the Work,and vice versa. The readjustment referred to may be done (see Figs. 1and 4), by means'of a pinion 140, secured on arm 31 and engaging teeth`141 on cam plate 131. The nuts which secure pinion 140 may be loosened.the pinion slightly shifted and the nuts tightened,thus making thenecessary adjustment. Such adjustment alters the relation between camplate 131 and bolt 134` thus determining the dpoint at which the clampwheel 32 is released and the take-up of the thread terminates. Suchadjustment is adequate for all needs of the machine. To illustrate suchadjustment, suppose the stitch line was desired to be drawn two-thirdsinstead of one third into the material of the sole. The taking up of thethread must continue slightly longer than before and this is effected bysetting back the cam plate 121 by a left-hand rotation or adjustment andre-securing it. The result is that the cam contacts the holt 134slightly later, thus causing the thread to be pulled slightly It is alsoobvious that with the described mechanisms, any readjustment of thedepth of stitch line also automatically readjusts the amount of newthread measured off, thus preserving the proper relation of the severaloperations.

I have thus described a complete and operative sewing machine, of theform designed and adapted for sewing articles,'such as shoe or bootsoles, and have described al1 130 of the parts thereof with especialreference to the novel features of construction, ar-Y rangement, designand combination.

It will be seen that the liereinbefore described machine attainsadvantages and objects hereinbefore recited and that the principlesthereof are adaptable, not only for the specific purposes illustrated,but for other purposes in connection with sole sewing or other machines.It is further manifest that various of the parts, features, andcombinations, may be indefinitely-modified in form or mode of operation,without departing from the principles of the invention, and in viewthereof I do not wish to be limited to any specific features,arrangement-s, parts, or other details, excepting in so far as the sameare referred to in the appended claims.

`What I claim and desire to secure by Letters `Patent is:

l. In a sewing machine, the combination of a moving combined threadmeasure and take-up instrument, a thread clamp between Said instrumentand the thread supply, and a pair of coperating parts, the first, as acam, rotated by said instrument, and the second, as a bolt, actuated bysaid first part to move radially for clamping and unclainping saidclamp, whereby said instrument first takes up thread and then after agiven point measures off a further supply.

Q. In a sewing machine, the combination of a swinging combined threadmeasure and take-up instrument, a thread clamp between said instrumentand the thread supply, and a pair of cooperating parts, the first beinga cam concentric wit-h and rotated by said instrument, and the second afollower actuated by said cam to move radially for clamping andunclainping said clamp, whereby said instrument first takes up thethread and then after a given point measures off a fur ther supply;together with means foi' ad-y justing said first part relatively to saidinstrument whereby the unclamping of the thread may be timed earlier orlater.

In a sewing machine, the combination of a take-up arm swingable abolitagiven axis, a thread-clamp wheel adapted to be rotated by the pull ofthe thread under the action of the take-up arm whereby thread may bedrawn in measured quantities from a supply, a device for locking saidwheel to clamp the thread during a part of each stitch cycle, and a partor cam actuated by the take-up arm to unlock the wheel during the activestroke of said arm, whereby the thread is first taken up and thenmeasured off.

4. In a sewing machine, the combination of a take-up arm swingable abouta given axis, a thread-clamp wheel adapted to be rotated by the pull ofthe thread under the action of the take-up arm whereby thread may bedrawn in measured quantities from a supply, a device for locking saidwheel to clamp the thread during a part of each stitch cycle, and a partor cam actuated by the take-up arm to unlock the wheel during the activestroke of said arm, whereby the thread is first taken up and thenmeasured olf; said wheel and cani being both conceit tric with the axisof take-up swinging.

5. In a sewing machine, the combination of atake-up arm swingable abouta given aXis, a thread-clamp wheel adapted to be rotated by the pull ofthe thread under the action of the take-up arm whereby thread ymaybedrawn lin measured quantities from a supply, a device for locking saidwheel to clamp the thread during a part of each stitch cycle, and a partor cam actuated by the take-up arm to unlock the wheel during the activestroke of said arm, whereby the thread is first taken up and thenmeasured off; said wheel and cam being both concentric with the axis oftake-up swinging and said cam and device arranged so that .the cam actsradially on said device for locking and unlocking the wheel.

' 6. Ina sewing machine the combination of a take-up fitted to swingabout a given aXis and to carry the thread at its swinging end, meansfor automatically swinging saidV take-up to and fro during the stitchingoperations of the machine, a peripherally grooved thread wheel locatedconcentrically to said axis of swinging of said take-up, said take-upbeing between said thread wheel and the stitching point, and means foreffecting the unlocking of said thread wheel during the active stroke ofthe take-up.

7. In a sewing machine the combination of a swinging take-up, anoscillating shaft carrying said take-up, means for automaticallyoscillating said shaft to swing said take-up during the stitchingoperations of the machine, a tliread-claiiip-wlieel loosely surroundingsaid take-up shaft, and means for effecting the clamping or unclampingof said thread-clamp-wheel in harmony with 'the movements of thetake-up, said means

